PICTURE CHINA

I thought it would be fitting for the first post of this project to focus on what many people consider to be the heart of China- Tiananmen Square. This massive expanse of concrete is one of the world’s biggest public spaces and lies at the geographic center of Beijing. It has been the scene of many important events in modern Chinese history, from the declaration of the People Republic of China in 1949 to the student protests of 1989, and remains one of the main pilgrimage points for Chinese tourists.

On any given day, thousands of people come to fly kites, visit the mausoleum of Chairman Mao or have their picture taken in front of the famous backdrop of Tiananmen gate. While the mood of the place is generally lighthearted, it is impossible to ignore the fact that the square is a key symbol of the might of the Chinese government. From the imposing Communist architecture to the strong army presence to Mao’s portrait hanging on Tiananmen Gate, it is clear that the intention of the square is to let all visitors know exactly who is in charge.

Beijing’s Hutong neighborhoods are some of the liveliest and most interesting areas of the city to explore. Made up of one-story brick and wood houses connected by winding alleyways, the layout of these neighborhoods has changed little in the past thousand years.

The Hutongs are constantly buzzing with activity. Old men tend to their pet birds, circles of people play cards and all manner of goods are bought and sold. The intimate layout of these neighborhoods seems to inspire socialization and tight-knit communities are formed within them.

In Beijing’s race towards modernization many of these neighborhoods are being demolished. Critics claim that the houses are not fit for a modern city and it is true that many of buildings lack proper heating, plumbing and sanitation. While the Hutong’s residents may be better off in newly constructed suburban housing, it cannot be denied that some of the city’s character will be taken with them.

It can sometimes feel that all of Beijing is one giant construction site. Cranes dot the skyline, scaffolding covers whole blocks of buildings and you cannot walk far without navigating around a group of construction workers digging up the street. In an effort to show the world a “new China” during the 2008 Olympics, much of the city is undergoing a facelift of unprecedented proportions. An estimated 1 million migrant workers have come to Beijing to work at the 1000+ construction sites throughout the city.

This building boom has certainly made parts of the city seem more modern but has destroyed many areas which were traditionally residential. Working class people who have lived in certain neighborhoods for generations are forced to move to the outskirts of the city in search of affordable housing.

To see a sampling of the different construction projects underway in Beijing go to www.urbanplanet.com.

The Dashanzi Art District (aka Factory 798) is a huge complex of factories in the northeast outskirts of Beijing. The buildings where built in the 1950’s in the Bauhaus style in cooperation with East Germany and used to produce electronic components for the Chinese military. After the factories fell into disuse in the early 1990’s, several artists and teachers from the nearby Central Academy of Fine Arts set up studios in the complex.

Today the area is home to galleries, artist studios, bookstores, cafes and restaurants. In a country that has a history of censoring controversial art and artists, it is encouraging to see that Beijing’s art scene has found a home and is thriving.

For more detailed information about Factory 798 see the excellent Wikipedia article or visit www.798space.com.

A walk through Beijing’s streets reveals the strange mix of extremes that exist in contemporary China. Newfound affluence contrasts with grinding poverty, gleaming residential towers rise above crumbling Hutongs and pockets of bohemians exist among stoic young soldiers marching in formation through the city streets. While it would be a mistake to assume that Beijing is representative of China as a whole, the scene on the city’s streets is very telling of the direction in which the country is headed.